When customers book hair appointments at Chicago’s Logan Parlor, owner Jamie DiGrazia asks only two questions: How long is your hair, and how long do you want it to be? These questions may seem simple and even quite logical, but in fact, they are quietly revolutionary.
While it’s quite common for a person’s hair length and style to deviate from gender norms, it remains standard practice in the beauty industry for pricing menus to offer women’s cuts and men’s cuts. DiGrazia says the model is both inefficient for salons as well as unfair and unaffirming for customers.
“Everyone has the right to a safe and positive affirming hair service,” DiGrazia told LGBTQ Nation. At Logan Parlor and other affirming salons scattered across the country, pricing and time slots are based on desired length and style, not gender. DiGrazia’s nonprofit, Hair Has No Gender, aims to spread the concept of gender-free pricing throughout the industry.
It’s no easy feat, though. Gender norms have been embedded into every nook and cranny of the industry for decades, and DiGrazia has found that some of the institutions in charge are profoundly resistant to change.
“Why wouldn’t we want to move towards this pricing structure that’s gonna support queer people, have women pay a fair price and allow the business owners to charge for their time, talent, and product instead of someone’s perceived or assumed gender identity?” they said. “Charging based on gender is jamming more traditional gender roles down everybody’s throat.”
But of course, that’s exactly what some social conservatives want.
Making change on our own
As trans people have become more visible, a vicious conservative backlash seeks to erase anyone who deviates from the gender norms governed by sex assigned at birth. Laws targeting everything from gender-affirming care and anti-trans discrimination protections to pronoun use in schools have grown exponentially — both in number and cruelty — since the GOP began waging its war on this small and vulnerable community.
Recently, Republican lawmakers took their battle to a new level, pushing for the right to police even the way kids dress and wear their hair.
When DiGrazia caught wind of Arkansas’s “Vulnerable Youth Protection Act,” they began campaigning against it immediately. H.B. 1668 sought to punish adults who supported a young person’s social transition, meaning their decision to present as a gender they were not assigned at birth through changing their name, clothes, hair, or other physical attributes, but not through any medical care.
The bill defined social transitioning as “any act by which a minor adopts or espouses a gender identity that differs from the minor’s biological sex… including without limitation changes in clothing, pronouns, hairstyle, and name.”
DiGrazia watched the entire hearing in which the bill was introduced. “It was disgusting,” they said. In one clip, state Rep. Mary Bentley (R), the bill’s author, confirmed that the text says adults who support a child’s social transition, even when that child has consent from their parents, could be found civilly liable for up to 20 years for providing that support.
Bentley called supporting trans youth “a horrible social experiment that is just devastating the lives of people.”
“It was disgusting,” DiGrazia said. “I couldn’t believe my eyes and ears.”
Perhaps even more shocking, they added, was the silence from major beauty associations, despite DiGrazia’s efforts to mobilize them.
“They basically took a ‘let’s wait and see approach,’” they said, declining to name the specific group they tried to work with. “I wrote them a pretty stern email about how that was a harmful choice… They have a responsibility to our industry.”
DiGrazia felt that even if the legislation was likely to die on its own due to unconstitutional language, it was important to come out hard against it, to send a message to lawmakers that the industry would not tolerate even the possibility of legislation so hateful and wouldn’t support a debate over trans kids’ dignity.
“They didn’t do anything about it, so I had to do it. I had to get my volunteers, get the graphic designer.” The Hair Has No Gender Instagram post on the bill was the organization’s most shared to date. “Hundreds of people shared it,” DiGrazia said. “I hope they called as well.”
Bentley did withdraw the bill after the hearing, as it was criticized by the Attorney General’s office for chilling free speech. However, she will work on amendments and language with the Attorney General’s office to bring it into a form that could pass.
DiGrazia is ready to fight again, and they hope others will be too, whether against this particular bill or any similar ones that arise nationwide.
“Make the calls, make the emails, tell [your] friends and family, and make [your] own campaign around it about how it’s harmful… I think people think that somebody else is going to do it, like I did,” he said. “No one else is going to do it.”
We need people that are willing to advocate and who are active allies to stand up against terrible things… It’s really important that we have this grassroots community,” he continued. “I just want to mobilize all these salons that are in the community that serve queer people… We’ve got to come together and make change on our own.”
Love your hair, love yourself
DiGrazia isn’t only trying to fight these bad bills and industry trends — they’re also trying to implement some good.
In Illinois, they have been working with lawmakers to pass legislation that would enshrine gender-free pricing into law. The Gender-Based Discrimination in Service Industries Act would ban service businesses from charging different prices based on gender. It’s something that theoretically seems easy to get behind, but H.B. 5523 died in the state house in January.
Some folks didn’t see a need for it, DiGrazia said, since gender-based pricing is technically already illegal through sex-discrimination law (though it remains common practice). Others thought it would be a burden to salons, who would have to change their pricing structures.
DiGrazia said one beauty association even hired a lobbyist to advocate against the bill, which played a major role in its failure. The lobbyist argued the bill was vague and made untrained business owners vulnerable to the consequences of a law they wouldn’t know how to implement.
Through their work with Hair Has No Gender, DiGrazia has heard from several brands that believe they should emphasize the business benefits of inclusion rather than the importance of queer and trans rights if they want to succeed in shifting hearts and minds on this issue. DiGrazia disagrees with this approach.
“I’m never going to do that,” they said, emphasizing that they’re dealing with a human rights issue. “The conversation is trans and queer rights. If it also benefits someone’s business, great…. [but] I’m not going to lead with that. That advice makes me sick.”
They said these kinds of changes are about keeping clients and coworkers safe and comfortable. “This is about being a good person and a good human and being an active ally and standing up for people who are being attacked,” DiGrazia said.
Stylists who are not trained to be inclusive could end up disappointing their clients at best and, at worst, making them feel profoundly unsafe or dysphoric. DiGrazia said they’ve worked with people who have not been given the haircut they asked for because their stylist perceived them as more feminine or masculine than the style they requested.
“I didn’t realize how important my hair was to me as my image until I had the cut that made me feel like me,” Logan Parlor client Emma Marzullo said in a video.
“Hair is an extension of yourself,” added Qadir Muhammad. “If you love your hair, you in turn love yourself a little bit more.”